Add some character, elegance, and depth to my bedroom with me! If you’ve ever wondered how to make picture frame molding, this guide will walk you through the process step by step. This project can seem overwhelming, but I’d actually call it beginner-friendly. Why? Because it was one of the first DIY projects I attempted, and if I can do it, so can you!

I redid my bedroom a few years ago and loved it, but honestly, the second we were done, I wanted more trim! That’s why I decided to tackle this project. If you’ve been wanting to add architectural interest to your walls, this is the perfect DIY.

how to make picture frame molding

SUPPLIES

• Supplies:

  • Trim molding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Nails
  • Paint (to match or contrast your wall color. I’m using Ultra Pure White– the same color as my walls)

  Tools:

  • Measuring tape
  • Miter saw
  • Nail gun
  • Level

Step 1: Plan Your Trim Layout

Before you start cutting anything, take the time to plan how you want your trim to look. I highly recommend mocking it up to visualize the final design. You can see my mock-up below. It really helped me decide on the spacing. I spaced my trim 3 inches apart and left 7 inches from the crown molding since I plan to add scallop trim later.

If you have chair molding, consider placing boxes above and below it. If you’re working around a window, the placement will be more obvious (like on my walls). On a blank wall, a good rule of thumb is to use an odd number of boxes- preferably 3- to create a balanced look.

You may also want to consider things like centering a large piece of furniture or TV within one of the boxes when planning your design. If you have art you plan on hanging, make sure the number of boxes will allow you to center these and make sure they’ll be wide enough to accommodate the frames. The same goes for a TV or piece of furniture.

For consistency, the box width above doors should be the same width as the doors. The distance between each box, as well as between the crown molding, windows, and baseboards, should always be 3 inches. 

Check where your outlets and light switches are. If possible, make your spacing so you won’t run into them. If that’s not possible, you can start and stop the trim at the outlet or light switch.

Step 2: Mark Your Wall

To make spacing consistent, cut a 3-inch spacer piece and use it as a guide to mark the wall with pencil. Just slide the spacer on the wall while making a pencil mark to create the boxes.

I prefer using a pencil for this step instead of painter’s tape. Why? For one, it’s quicker. If you want to change anything, you just erase and change the line. The tape needs to be removed before install (which means the tape is a bit wasteful). The pencil lines are functional- this is what you’ll line the trim on when installing it!

Then, measure each part of each box and write down the dimensions—first on the wall, then on paper. Later, you can take the measurements on the paper to the saw to get the correct cuts. Then once the trim is cut, you can see where each piece goes as it matches the number on the wall.

Knowing the measurement of each trim piece will help you calculate how much trim to buy. Trim usually comes in 8′ pieces. Add the lengths and divide by 8′.

For this project, I’m using a thin piece of chair molding. It’s the most affordable option I could find for the look I want. It’s petite, but will look cute!

Step 3: Cut Your Trim

Using a miter saw, cut each trim piece at a 45-degree angle. When cutting, the highest edge is the outer most part. The small decorative part edge is the inner most part. 

When measuring, always measure from pointy edge to pointy edge of the trim to get the length. Pro tip: Cut the longest pieces of trim first. So if you cut it too short, it can be trimmed so it’s one of the shorter pieces.

As you cut each piece of wood, mark off on the paper that it’s been cut. Also write on the back of each piece of trim the measurement. Because we have an old house with crooked walls, almost every measurement is different so for us, it’s important to write down the measurement of each piece of wood so when we bring it inside we know where it goes.

Step 4: Nail the Trim to the Wall

Once all your pieces are cut, it’s time to attach them to the wall! Line up the outer edge of the trim with your pencil marks and use a nail gun to secure it every 12 inches.

A helpful trick: Leave the last corner piece un-nailed until you’ve adjusted the trim so everything fits and the mitered cuts meet up perfectly.

They go up pretty quick at this point and it’s very satisfying!

Step 5: Fill, Sand, and Paint

Once all the trim is secured, fill the nail holes with wood filler, let it dry, and sand it smooth.

Then, paint everything to match your existing wall color—or choose a contrasting shade for extra drama! I’m using Ultra Pure White– the same color as my walls.

after

Even before I finished, I was amazed at how much the trim draws your eye up to the ceiling! This project completely transformed my space, and I know it will do the same for yours. 

The repetition of the squares of molding is so beautiful to my eye. It also creates nice boundaries for hanging art while feeling neat and tidy. This look reminds me of an apartment in Paris—it’s very chic! It took us a few days to install the molding, but the look is totally worth it to me. I can’t stop staring at the finished walls—they feel so intentional and polished.

price breakdown

For this project, all I bought was the Trim molding. We got 20 pieces at $5.98 each for a total of $128 with taxes. I used the most affordable molding I could find that’d give me the look I want. I am happy with that price for the look I got.

In conclusion, I really love this look! It’s DIYer friendly while also giving an very high end look.

Now that you know how to make picture frame molding, are you ready to give it a try?

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